I did a little bit of work on the truck putting in the new brake line.
They gave me a slightly different bolt for the brake hose at the autoparts store.
The bolt came with 3 washers: I tried with no washer,
1 washer, 2 washers,
and 3 washers.
1 Washer works best.
It’s what is on the other side, but it still leaks. This bolt has to be torqued really tight.
Transferring the one from the passenger brake to the driver’s brake, the bolt sits without leaking. The one from the autoparts store (handed to me with the question “Is this the right one?”) leaks. It has a slightly different hole.
So, I think I need a bolt with the right hole size, and maybe a little less thread.
I’ve reflected quite a bit on my situation with the pickup. In terms of moving forward, the problem is that it is not starting. I think that it may be the cables, and the way the new ones sit on the battery – the current transfer simply isn’t good enough without the grommets. It could also be the negative cable rebuilt at the bottom, or the ignition system (coil and switch). If it is the negative cable rebuilt at the bottom, then I have to distinguish between a disconnect higher up, and a switch that is sending a “no start” signal. I’m ruling out the alternator cable (obviously also respliced) because I don’t think that you need it to start the truck.
I still haven’t tried jumping off the alternator, which rules out the cable-battery connection. This might work.
I think that the best way to proceed, may be to:
1) try reconnecting everything and jumping off the alternator with the little starter pack I have. I need a good brake hose bolt for this (not really, but if I want to drive it on the road, I should have one).
2) get some battery cables to replace the ones that I tried to rebuild (both of them).
Get a brake line bolt at the same time, and a splicing tool to resplice the alternator cable. Maybe get a new ignition switch and ignition coil at the same time from a salvage yard, just in case. Get a decent Digital Voltmeter with leads, the analog one that I have doesn’t read 12V and the environs very well – the choice is 10V or 100V scale. This whole project should cost about $50. If it doesn’t start at this point, then it is definitely a switch somewhere.
3) Since I have no cash, there is the possibility of parting out the truck. There are a lot of good parts on it:
brake master cylinder
windshield and windows (extended cab)
relays and fuses
engine (needs to be rebuilt, but it runs)
transmission (1-2 clutch is long, and reverse clutch is absent)
back of pickup (opens down)
coolant reservoir (missing cap)
windshield wiper apparatus
radio (tape doesn’t work)
rearview mirrors (driver and passenger and front windshield)
ignition coil, switch, steering wheel
CV boots, and joints
needs a transmission cable
If everything is parted out, obviously I would lose mobility (which I currently don’t have anyway, but have the possibility of getting for about $50), but I might have some money for projects.
Some spanish flashcards when I get some time…
The Reproductive Systems
Meiosis, reproductive cell division (level 2)
Histology of the ovary (level 2)
Mammary glands (level 2)
Diseases or conditions that involve these systems: prostate enlargement, prostate cancer, erectile disfunction, testicular cancer, breast cancer, ovarian cancer, uterine cancer, fibroids, endometrial cancer, pregnancy, vasectomies. In dogs: spaying and neutering surgeries.