Took a look under the truck for a more realistic assessment of the truck problem. Hard work because the allergen level is so high. I have to use my inhaler almost every 30 min.
Looking at the problem:
transmission is bolted to cross bracket w/#16 bolt.
transmission is bolted to linkage to driveshaft w/4 #16 bolts.
bolts to engine on either side need deep socket 16. 2 bolts each side. One is a much smaller bolt for some reason.
Need to disconnect rigged transmission cable. Need new one. It ran fine for over a year with the old one, just with 2 gears – N, and D. R was accessible but because reverse clutch is burned out, does not work. P works with great difficulty – terrified I will break the cable if I use it. It’s an Alison 4L60E automatic tranny.
Number 11 socket can be used to remove the flywheel cover if necessary.
Starter could be removed from the flywheel. Have done this over 15 times since the truck stopped 4 months ago.
Oil pan in front of transmission. Various and sundry bolts seem to be holding it to the engine.
Big bracket supporting engine.
Quick look at the front wheels reveal that the truck is indeed rear wheel drive. There is no coupling of the front wheels to the transmission.
Coupling occurs through the rear wheel differential to the back wheels.
1. Uncoupling the transmission from the driveshaft , and taking off the flywheel cover are probably pretty easy first steps.
2. Getting the transmission unbolted from the engine is a harder step. One jack supporting the front of the transmission with the braket still attached while I try to do it is probably the way to proceed.
3. Supporting the back of the transmission while I remove the bracket is then the next step.
4. Once everything is detached, it will probably have to be pulled out of the clutch.
5. It might be too heavy to leave the pan on. The pan might not support the weight of the transmission when it falls out. Draining the pan, and removing the cover is doable. Have done it before. Might leave the transmission in a leaky, messy state.
6. The superresponsible thing to do would be to drop the engine with the transmission in one big chunk with the transmission uncoupled from the driveshaft. Then the leaking head gasket could be fixed, and valves cleaned, etc. for a super tune-up for mileage.
7. Would still need to work on the starting problem, which is purely electric, and independent of transmission and engine. Take apart the steering column, trace the wiring, etc.